S H K H A R A
Beqnu Khergiani’’ route
5203 m.
DURATION > 13 Days
PRICE > From 3700 €
GROUP SIZE > Max 2 person
DIFFICULTY LEVEL > Advance
Shkhara (located in the Svaneti region) is the highest mountain in Georgia and one of the most difficult to reach mountains in the Caucasus. It ranks second in Europe after Elbrus along with Dykh-Tau. Its south wall is the most spectacular sight in the Caucasus, reaching 2,300 vertical meters from the bottom of the steep route to the summit. In the Svan language, it means nine-headed mountain.
Shkharas rarely reached peaks, it is surrounded by difficult terrain on all sides, there is no easy way to climb it, and the descent is as difficult as the ascent. Main (5,203) and Western (5,069) peaks are noteworthy.
In 1888, the first ascent to the main peak of Shkhar was made by Swiss Ulrich Almer, Christian Roth, and British John Cockin from the North Caucasus side, from the North-Eastern ridge, from Kabardino-Balkaria.
In 1950: Beknu and Besarion Khergiani, Ilia Gabliani, Maxime Gvarliani, and Chichiko Chartolani made the first ascent of the southern slope to the main peak. This route is considered a "classic" route of the southern slope, its difficulty is still "5b" on the Caucasian evaluation scale.
The first winter climb, south face of Shkhara made by “CAUCASUS HIGHLIGHTS” founders and guides in 2019. https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/mount-shkhara-georgia-new-route-first-winter-ascent-video-archil-badriashvili-giorgi-tepnadze.html
’’Beqnu Khergiani’’ - This route follows the logical terrain of the South face, and apart from the long distance, the terrain is always variable, with snow, rock, and ice. Its passage is very interesting for very well-prepared mountaineers who are fond of "fast and light" on big routes and are already experienced at some level.
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Our mountain Guides have an average of over 10 years of experience in the industry, and a high record of safe, summit climbing. Safety is always our number one priority.
Our guides are mountaineers, having a strong grasp of technical climbing, and high altitude experience, along with strong interpersonal skills.
The first winter ascent to the southern summit, as well as the first winter ascent of the grandiose South Wall of Shkhara, belong directly to the founders and guides of our company.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214186
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Fitness
The route requires good, intensive physical preparation in advance. Climbers must be in excellent physical shape to join this expedition.
Technical
Mountaineering experience is required. It is necessary to know the technique of working with a rope and the organization of protection, a good level of rock and ice climbing.
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Day 1 : Arrive Kutaisi \ Tbilisi. You will be meet at the airport by a Caucasus Adventures representative and transferred to the hotel.
Day 2 : Travel to Ushguli. In the morning, we will check all equipment. We sort and organize our gear and supplies, departure.
Ushguli is a community of five villages, located at the head of the Enguri gorge in Svaneti. It is one of the highest continuously inhabited settlements in Europe, located at 2,200m, near the foot of Shkhara.
Accommodation in a Hotel.
Day 3 : Base Camp (2920 m). We transfer to 4WD vehicles for the last 7km (about 30 minute), then we make the 4 - hour hike to the Base Camp.
Overnight in tents.
Day 4 : BC – Camp 1 (3500 m). Cross glacier and climb moderately difficult pitches of rock, camping in tents.
Day 5 : Camp 1 – Camp 2 (4300 m). Climb to the high camp, camping in tents.
Day 6 : Camp 2 – Camp 3 (4700 m). Climb to the high camp, camping in tents.
Day 7 : Shkhara Summit Day. Returning to our high camp to overnight.
Day 8 : Descend to Camp 1. Camping in tents.
Day 9 : Descend to Ushguli. Transfer to the village. Accommodation in a Hotel.
Day 10 : Reserve Day.
Day 11 : Reserve Day.
Day 12 : Drive to Kutaisi \ Tbilisi. We travel by 4WD vehicles back to the town. Accommodation in a Hotel.
Day 13 : Departure.
Transfer to the airport (Kutaisi-Tbilisi).
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Available : July - August
BASIC PACKAGE For the 2024 season.
| Group size: max. 2 person |
Group of 1 – 5340 €
Group of 2 – 3700 €
Costs Include:
Airport pick-up and transfer to the hotel
All accommodations and transportation during the program on a regular itinerary
Tents, ropes, and other group climbing equipment
All expedition logistics including climbing permits
All expedition staff including mountain guide and local support staff
All breakfast and dinners while climbing (snacks not included)
Costs Do Not Include:
Food or dining outside of the climbing period
Personal clothing and equipment
Personal travel insurance, trip cancellation insurance, and medical or security evacuation insurance
Personal climbing equipment
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Mountaineering Gear
Expedition Backpack: approximately 45 L +. Backpack Rain Cover (optional)
Trekking Poles: With snow baskets
Ice Axe : For technical mountaineering and ice climbing
Crampons: General mountaineering crampons
Climbing Helmet: Must be able to fit over your warm hat
Alpine Climbing Harness: Mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops.
Carabineers: 2 regular and 4 locking
Belay/Rappel Device
Headlamp: With extra sets of new batteries
Duffel Bag with Lock: For transporting gear and storing street clothes, etc. at hotel/car
Footwear
Mountaineering Boots: For alpine and ice climbing.
Mountaineering wool Socks
Sleeping Bag: Rated to at least -15
Self-inflating Sleeping Pad: Full length is preferred
Clothing- Essentials
Hard Shell Jacket with Hood: Waterproof and breathable shell jacket
Hard Shell Pants: Waterproof and breathable shell pants
Insulation Layers
Insulated Down or Synthetic Jacket with hood
Insulated Pants
Headwear: Warm Hat (synthetic or wool hat)
Balaclava: To protect your neck and face in high winds
Cap: To shade your face/neck from the sun on a hot day.
Buff: To protect your neck/face from the sun
Eyewear - Glacier Glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around, protection for 3-4th category.
Gloves - Lightweight Synthetic Liner Gloves: For wearing on warm days
Soft Shell Gloves: To wear for moderate cold/wind
Shell Glove with Insulated Liner: To wear for severe cold/strong wind
Thermos (optional): 1-liter
Sunscreen: SPF 50 or better
Lip Screen: SPF 40
Small Personal First-aid Kit: Includes athletic tape, band-aids, Ibuprofen, blister care, etc.
Shkhara climbing
Shkhara climbing
Shkhara climbing
Shkhara climbing
Shkhara climbing
Shkhara climbing
Shkhara climbing
Shkhara climbing